When Eid Al Adha holiday approached, I didn’t have any valid visa or even a destination in mind since all flights have tripled their price.

The cheapest flight was to Pakistan and it’s the country I’ve really wanted to go but the thought of going through a long visa process was dreadful.

Until a simple message to an acquaintance opened up the door for me as he knows someone in the consulate that was going to help me get a visa.

With such a short time before my travel date, I didn’t even look for a CS host or think of anything except buying my flight to Islamabad.

Heck, I even traveled with ONE WAY flight! I have NEVER done that! Every plane I’ve boarded always requires a return or connecting flight.  Luckily, this one didn’t even ask and I also got upgraded to Business Class!

Anyways! I just wanted to show you guys how impromptu the trip was. My next worry was the immigration in case they ask for a return flight or even accommodation because I didn’t have any.

I got to the immigration counter, he asked;

IO: “Where’s your return ticket?”

Me: “I don’t have any because I’m not sure if I would fly out from Lahore or Karachi or any other cities.”- I started to shiver a little out of panic.

IO: “Show me the Letter of Invitation.”

Me: “I don’t have a copy but I can show it on my phone”

IO: “But this is in Karachi, you’re in Islamabad. I need an address and contact person in Islamabad” Shit! I’m screwed.

Me: “I don’t have an address; I have my friend waiting for me outside” (BIG FAT LIE) I don’t even know why I said that. I should have said, I’ll make a booking now or anything else but lie!

IO: “Your friend is waiting outside?”

Me: “Yes, he is. He’s going to take me to my accommodation so I don’t have the address.”

IO: “Give me his number.” And shit got real.

Me: “Here you go.” I gave a number of a CS guy I spoke to just an hour before taking off and I was praying for him to answer the call. I mean who would answer at 5 a.m.!

Then he started speaking to him in Urdu. I was in shock and surprised that he actually answered his phone.

I was praying to God that he would remember my name! We only spoke for a bit on WhatsApp.

All I could understand was “guest, and address”

Then I heard him say “panch minute” which means 5 minutes. And I thought; Hold up! Did he ask how long it would take for me to go out? Is he actually outside?

He hung up the call and I quickly asked: “Is my friend outside?” He said “Yes”

I calmly nodded but I was jumping in so much happiness inside!

My big fat lie fell right into place! HOW?! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?! The guy I spoke to on CS did NOT tell me he was coming to pick me at 5 a.m. from the airport!

I was off to a great start!

I walked out of the airport with a jaw drop. Half of Pakistanis were at the airport! I have NEVER EVER seen such crowded receiving end at the airport. I felt like I was walking in a pageant.

Yep yep, All eyes on me! *beauty queen wave*

So here’s how my trip went while in Pakistan

Day 1 – Rawalpindi/Islamabad

As soon as I arrived, my CS host was trying to find accommodation within my budget range. Accommodation in Islamabad isn’t cheap I tell ya! Airbnb or CouchSurfing would be your best options.

A basic room in a guest house costs between 16 to 25USD and this is BASIC.

I stayed at Rakaposhi Guest House in F7 for 16USD a night.

After freshening up, I started exploring Islamabad on a bike using the app Careem. 

Faisal Mosque

The mosque is funded by King Faisal of Saudi Arabia, hence the name Faisal Mosque. It’s shaped like a Bedouin tent. The mosque is located on the Margala hills which make it visible from everywhere in Islamabad.

Said Pur Village

A stunning tourist built village but also has a real village with old temples behind all the colorful restaurants and cafes.

Monal Restaurant

There are many restaurants for a viewpoint of Islamabad along the hill. Monal seems to be one of the famous ones. However, the food wasn’t great. Maybe I didn’t order the right items but you guys should try the other less popular restaurants and share your experience!

Lok Virsa Museum

Lok Virsa is a cultural and heritage museum where you can learn about the cultures and traditions of different regions in Pakistan.

Website: http://lokvirsa.org.pk/

Pakistan Monument

Legit one of the most beautiful monument I have ever seen. It’s best visited at night. The four leaves represent the four provinces of Pakistan. And in each lotus petals, there are detailed drawings of its history.

It’s simply beautiful!

Day 2 – Rawalpindi/Islamabad

Visa errand all day!

I spent my morning biking around the old city of Rawalpindi and had breakfast in a local restaurant.

By 9 a.m. I went back to Islamabad to start my visa process for Afghanistan.

I arrived, spoke to the counter and explained my purpose of visit. After he is convinced, then only he gave me the form to fill.

I filled the form, got my passport and visa copy but I needed a contact person and address in Kabul before handing it in. I waited about an hour until a friend replied then submitted my paper. After an hour, they said they needed a Non-Objection Certificate from the Yemeni embassy.

So I quickly rushed before they closed. I got to the embassy and sat with the ambassador. We had a nice chat and he gave me ample advice to avoid visiting countries with question marks on them for my own safety. He was really sweet and kind but of course, I didn’t take the advice 😛

It took another hour until I got the papers, then I went back to the embassy only to find out that they have gone on a two hours break. So I went to Centaurus Mall to kill time and cool off. I sat in Gloria Jean’s for a nice view of Islamabad. Two hours passed, went back and submitted all my papers and payment fee and then told they only accept US Dollars. I went and exchanged to USD. After I came back and paid, they said to collect it on 29^th August and I needed it for 22^nd Aug so I asked for an urgent visa. That was an extra 50USD so I had to find the one and only bank where I can withdraw and then go to a currency exchange and went back only to find out I was 10USD short! 50+80USD= 120USD. What a brain fart! I went back to exchange an extra 10USD and then submitted my documents. Then I had to wait under the heat until 5:30 p.m. to receive my visa. IT WAS A LONG TIRING DAY.

My host picked me up with his cousin and friend then we went off to Murre. We arrived rather late because my visa was taking so long so we didn’t get the most out of Muree. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the cool weather and view from Gloria Jean’s.

After a 4 hours ride to Murree, I decided to go to Hunza Valley the same evening.

So off I went on a 14 hours carpool journey to the North of Pakistan I was actually looking forward to the long journey. I got in the car at about 11 p.m. and slept through the journey like a baby cause I didn’t sleep on my first night. (I can’t sleep whenever I stay alone in a guesthouse/hotel)

Day 3 – Hunza Valley

I woke up with a mountainous view in Gilgit Baltistan. I arrived at about 12 p.m. in Aliabad. 

The driver registered me at the first checkpoint and showed this to the following checkpoints until we arrive. This is also needed when leaving Gilgit Baltistan. 

I stayed in the Mountain View Hotel for 12USD per night. It’s a basic room without electricity LOL! Hunza had a power cut that week so the hotel owner would only turn on the generator a few hours during the night.

Karimabad is the go-to place for cafés, restaurants and it is also where the two forts are located; Baltit Fort & Altit Fort.

It is about 10 minutes ride on a Suzuki from Aliabad. It costs 0.16cents.

Staying in Karimabad would be ideal but a night stay during offseason could start from 40USD/night due to its tourist hub location. Aliabad is only 10 minutes ride away, so might as well save the cash and stay in Aliabad.

Baltit Fort, Altit Fort, Café de Hunza, and Pavillion restaurant is a must visit. I really wanted to visit the Khunjrab Pass which is the highest border crossing in the world. It also has the highest ATM in the world!

However, the cheapest car I found was for 65USD which is a GREAT deal but I was on a budget and I couldn’t find other travelers to go with and share the cost.

 

Day 4 – Hunza Valley

Since the Khunjrab plan went down the drain, a CS host offered to take on a tour around Hunza Valley in exchange for filling the petrol for 8USD per person which is again a great bargain!

We started with Attabad lake, a stunning clear blue lake that was formed after a landslide that covered two villages under the beautiful lake. The lake was formed in 2015 and had taken up a large size in such a short time.

After that, we went to Husseini suspension bridge which is also one of the most dangerous suspension bridge in the world. There is absolutely no safety measure if you drop which I hope no one drops! The wobbly rope and widely placed wooden plank

There we also enjoyed the view of Passu Cones. We had the option to hike up to Passu Glacier but I was so tired and out of shape to attempt the climb.

So we went to Borith lake.

After that, we headed back and on the way, we saw some black glacier.

He dropped me off at Café de Hunza again, since it’s a great café with a stunning view and most importantly, a good WiFi connection. Internet coverage is really terrible around Gilgit.

A CouchSurfer joined my table with another traveler and we had a nice chat.

In the evening we went for a delicious dinner at Café Kamal in Aliabad and hung out on the roof of our guest house and watched the Milky Way. Eagle’s nest is said to be a great spot for sunrise, sunset or milky way viewing if the sky is clear.

Day 5:

The ride back from Hunza Valley to Islamabad, unfortunately, starts at 7 a.m. So I was in the car from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

My host in Islamabad offered his family’s wedding hall to crash in and there was a wedding rehearsal when I got there so I got a little preview of a Pakistani wedding.

We hung out at a café until about 3a.m. where I decided to drag my host to Lahore with me and to take the bus at 6:30 a.m.

Day 6 – Lahore

We missed the 6:30 bus and waited an hour for the next bus. The Daewoo bus is very comfortable, cheap and convenient. We took the cheapest bus and it was great. It was 6.5USD for a 4 hours journey to Lahore.

We were picked up by another CS to tour us around Lahore. He was so nice to pick us up very last minute in his car. The weather was extremely humid!

Badshahi Mosque

This red sandstone mosque with intricate tile work and white marble interior is 350 years old from the Mughal Era. I visited a day before Eid Al Adha so the main entrance area was covered with shades for the Eid Prayer.

Street Food

Lahore is known to be the King of street food in Pakistan. However, they were all closed due to Eid and we found only one place that was open where I had knuckle soup. It was DE-LISH! The first time I tried it was in Sudan and simply loved it!

Wagah Border

The Rangers perform a parade and they both compete on who stomps the loudest, swing their leg highest, and untying the flag!

It’s a very light and patriotic event where both sides chant to their country’s slogan and cheer for their rangers. It’s definitely an experience you shouldn’t miss.

Then we left Lahore around 10.30 p.m. and arrived in Islamabad at 3 a.m.

Day 7:

I was picked up at 6 a.m. from the wedding hall and started my journey to Kabul which you can read more about here.

Transport

Intercity: There are buses, trains, and carpools.

Daewoo Bus: You can book online or get the ticket at the station.

Faisal Mover: This is on the lower standard which I have not personally tried. I used their car service which was in an old car without an AC.

Carpooling: This is the most convenient way for long distances to cut the journey time by 5 to 6 hours compared to going on a bus.

Islamabad – Hunza Valley 32 USD

Islamabad – Gilgit Baltistan 28USD

Hunza Valley – Islamabad 36USD

Islamabad – Torkham Border (Afghanistan) 16USD

Within the city – Careem is a ride hail app similar to Uber that is widely used in the major cities in Pakistan. It’s very cheap and convenient. It even comes with a bike and tuk-tuk option!

Accommodation

Islamabad:  The most recommended neighborhood is F6, F7, G6, and G7.

Rawalpindi: Unless you’re staying at an Airbnb/Couchsurfer’s house, you might get denied to stay in a guest hotel as they would need to get paperwork done prior to accepting your stay. I tried to stay in a guest house but they suggested to go back to Islamabad.

Hunza Valley:

Karimabad would be an ideal location but the price gets tripled.

Aliabad would be the next best option because it is only 10 minutes away from Karimabad.

 

Notes:

Carry a few copies of your passport and visa. Intercity travel check posts usually take a copy. If you are going to Hunza, get a police registration card at the Gilgit Police Station. From then on, you would only need to show the card instead of giving a copy of the passport and visa.